Christmas Eve In Cusco
Topic: Peru
We had planned a walk up the hill to the church on Christmas Eve but when we got outside, our plans changed immediately. We found that there was Christmas market in the main square! We started by looking at the food stands. The thing to eat on Christmas Eve apparently is an anticucho de corazon i.e. bits of grilled heart and a potato on a stick for 3 soles. David was tucking into his first by 10am.

We looked around the market for a while - it was absolutely packed. The stands sold mostly items to make a Belen (crib/nativity scene). Stables, shepherds, angels, that kind of thing. Whole stands were dedicated to one or two items i.e. just baby Jesuses all sizes with extra outfits and shoes, Sheep etc. Some stands advertised services "Babies and angels mended here". The poor people from the surrounding villages also had items for sale: things they found e.g. patches of grass, bits of lichen, moss and ferns. People bought them to make their Belenes look more authentic. The villagers sat in dusty heaps among their lichen and endless children eating ice lollies. It was a big occasion.

We escaped the chaos of the square to a new Mexican restaurant set in a quiet courtyard. We chatted to Walter, out waiter friend and ate fantastic soup. A smiling lady dressed in masses of petticoats and shawls interrupted us and tried to sell us items she had woven herself. We really didn't need anything but, of course, ended up buying a hard pumpkin hand engraved by her husband with Andean scenes. She was so delighted, she kissed us several times and wished us luck on our trip. She told us to be careful of pickpockets who come up from Lima.

We spent the afternoon, in and around the marketplace. That night we had a table booked at a trendy restaurant called the Fallen Angel and had a great time there. It was very festive with hats and turkey and so on.

We walked home through the square and the remains of the market. A lady was still trying to sell shepherds and a few Sponge Bob Square Pants figures. Most people had packed up leaving a ton of rubbish behind. David insisted on wearing his paper crown all the way home and enjoyed the comments this provoked. People snickered at him which is rich considering the hats that they themselves were wearing - a bowler, a trilby and even something that looked like an embroidered quiche!